Bangkok -- Venice of the East (it is not)

Years ago, Bangkok was called the Venice of the East. I find few similarities, but it’s true that the many rivers and canals play a big part in daily life here.

So it wouldn’t be a proper visit to this bustling metropolis without a cruise up the muddy waters of the Chao Phraya River. One can see the old and new meandering up the waterway – luxury hotels across from shacks on slits, laundry blowing in the breeze.

While downtown Bangkok is located east of the river, I made my way to the western bank to pay a visit to Wat Arun or Temple of Dawn. Its mighty, granite spire stands 82 meters high, surrounded by four lesser spires and decorated with a mosaic of porcelain tiles, which were leftover from a Chinese merchant ship hundreds of years ago. Impressive as it was at mid-morning, it must surely be an awe-inspiring experience to watch the sun come up over this monument, though I may never know. Mornings aren’t exactly my thing.

Knees knocking, I climbed the steep steps that allow you access to about halfway up the spire. From there, I surveyed the temple complex and the rest of Bangkok on the other side of the river, the reds and golds of the Grand Palace standing out dramatically.

I crossed back to the eastern shore and walked to the nearby Wat Pho – the biggest and oldest temple complex in Bangkok and home to the famous reclining Buddha. The massive plaster and gold leaf holy man is 46 meters long and 15 meters high. In his reclined posture, Buddha shows us he’s ready to enter Nirvana. I wish it were that easy for the rest of us.

Black lacquered pots lined the room, and satisfying plunks echoed as offerings of coins were made. As with all temples in Thailand, shoes were not permitted and “polite” dress was required. “Polite” dress seems to vary, but can include no hats, covered shoulders or elbows and knees or ankles and no tattered clothing. In one museum, they even required women to wear skirts – full-length pants weren’t good enough. In areas with a dress code, there are always garments available for rent, for sale or on loan with a deposit.

At the Vimanmek Teak Mansion, touted as the world’s largest teak building, I saw further evidence of Thailand’s old love affair with the Victorian era. The exquisite mansion of 72 rooms was used for just a couple years before the royals upgraded their lodgings, and Vimanmek became the royal warehouse. How wonderfully fickle the rich can afford to be.

Still game for more temples, I ended my day with a visit to Wat Benchamabophit, which houses the remains of King Rama V. But I found myself more interested in strolling through the monks’ quarters on the compound – seeing their bright orange robes on the laundry line and watching their daily lives in the works gave me a human perspective to Buddhist life that the golden images could not.

Check out my photo album, “Bangkok, City of Angels – Week 2” on my facebook page.